Koh Phi Phi as of August 2006
The Phuket ferry to Phi Phi departs from Rassada pier on the east side of Phuket Town, just before the bridge to Koh Sirey. There are 4 different boats running to Phi Phi run by different companies ... the slowest one is Sea Angel and the Phi Phi Cruiser. From Krabi Town the ferry departs twice daily from the 'new' pier. During the high season there is a ferry service from Koh Lanta as well.
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Once you get 100 meters from the ferry pier on Koh Phi Phi, the touts are gone and you may walk unmolested. This part of the Ton Sai village is rather cramped, with buildings on both side of the narrow street. There are no cars on Phi Phi Island, but you do need to look out for locals on bicycles and the occasional motorbike.
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Koh Phi Phi is expensive. A can of Coke is 30 Baht - the normal price in on the mainland is 15 Baht. SO in general Phi Phi is double the price for most everything.
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At the end of Tonsai Bay is a path going over a small hill to Loh Dalam Bay (known as the "other side"). Up on that road you have some small guesthouses and some local housing. This back corner of the island was and still is a bit swampy. A path leads off to the right saying "View point 400m". The first thing you see is a big mess where the water treatment plant is being rebuilt. Not pretty, but it was not pretty pre-Tsunami, and laid flat and filled with debris (8m deep) by the Boxing day Tsunami. You will come to a steep stairway. For someone it would is a 20 minute climb. For others 40 minutes. There is a gift shop complete with ice cream and cold drinks at the top. Also a panoramic view of Phi Phi Islands.
You will find the beach of Loh Dalam Bay now very empty. This area was once full of guesthouses the more famous being PP Charlies Bungalows. Now just very vacant - just sand and Coconut trees (some say the place has be improved). Some places on the beach you can see tiles on the ground that had obviously once been the floor of a bungalow. Looking out to sea across Loh Dalam Bay and think how horrifying it must have been. With no warning, and nowhere to run. There's a now a sign that says "Tsunami Hazard Zone - in case of earthquake head inland". There is no "inland" you are just a 2 minute walk from the othersides of the island Tonsai Bay...
Most day trippers just stay in Tonsai village. You may want to hire a longtail boat to spin around the island or buy a quick passage to Phi Phi Lei.
For those staying on Phi Phi longer than a day. Phi Phi is more up market, and less for the backpackers. There are still cheap bungalows, but they would be better termed inland shacks and small shop 'extra' rooms. The better 'cheap' option are mid price resorts usually with pool.
The other side of Phi Phi has resorts like tje Holiday Inn, Phi Phi Erawan Palms, Phi Phi Natural - all very nice places indeed. You also have the excellent Phi Phi Island Village. Keep in mind that these alternative spots require fantail taxi as they are not accessable by foot.
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Phi Phi The diving is also not as cheap as it used to be. Dive centers all charge the same prices now, and its quite a bit more than the average on Koh Tao, though the diving is better.
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